Jonathan Simkhai Fall 2022 Ready-to-Wear Collection

Fall finds Jonathan Simkhai in a happy and playful mood, reflected in designs like a sassy asymmetrical car wash skirt, shimmering sequin “jewel” dresses, knits with beaded fringe and rhinestone-encrusted pieces that seem to be indebted to a European house. These charmers mingle with new iterations of styles her customers can’t get enough of, like shirt dresses with cutout details, space-dyed knits and lingerie looks.

The brand had two spots on the calendar for the fall; the collection was first launched in the metaverse through a collaboration with Second Life, after which there was an in-person presentation. “I really wanted to break the ice and understand this new world and try to expose my client to it, but also acquire a new client,” Simkhai explained. “It’s not like I’m doing one instead of the other; it was business as usual with an added fun layer. There were a lot of people talking about the metaverse, but we actually did something.

After last season’s clothing fest, the focus shifted more to tailoring for fall. The collection included an inside-out pantsuit, as well as a pantsuit with controlled pleats on the jacket and on the side of the leg; a special piece for memorable occasions.

Simkhai is not a storyteller. The focus is on clothing; familiar silhouettes made new and exciting with die-cuts, hardware and handwork. Making casual chic dressing is the strength of his brand. A sheath with a cape built into the back had a simple elegance and ease of the kind that Claire McCardell (a designer who will be featured in part two of the current Costume Institute exhibit) introduced to sportswear. Simkhai’s whipstitched shearling coats and rustic urban coats are also inspired by the lexicon of American fashion items.