Rapaport Magazine – Party like the 80s

Big and bold with lots of gold, jewelry inspired by this most radical decade is all the rage.

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For some, the 1980s were marked by notorious fashion moments and questionable hairstyles. However, bold gold jewelry of this era was a stellar chapter in jewelry history, and one that is in high demand now.

Fashion houses Chanel and Gucci have both launched high jewelry collections that take inspiration from the decade, with Coco Crush’s chunky quilted gold jewelry and the geometric, asexual Gucci Link to Love line. Other brands have sought to recreate the weight of the era with curvaceous earrings, heavy chains and statement rings centered around gemstones.

At auction, demand for original jewelry from the 80s has also increased sharply, according to Violaine d’Astorg, head of jewelry at Christie’s France. She points to a Cartier zebra bracelet in gold and enamel with diamonds and emeralds that went on sale for 15,000 euros ($19,800) in December but sold for more than 81,000 euros ($106,920).

“’80s gold and diamond jewelry has long been a staple of the vintage market, and now that desire for bold, heavy jewelry is reflected in contemporary design,” says Jill Heller, a New York-based vintage dealer specializing in jewelry from that era. “The resurgence of this style stems from consumers’ need to see and feel what they’re investing in. As soon as you encounter an ’80s piece of jewelry, there’s an unmistakable luxury that’s hard to replicate.”

jessy thomas

Diamond ring in 18 carat gold.


Campbell + Charlotte

The Edge Ferris Wheel ring in 14k gold with diamonds and multicolored sapphires.


Suzanne Kalan

Emerald and Tahitian pearl earrings in 18 carat gold.


Deborah Pagani

Custom honey diamond bangle in 18 carat gold.


Emily P. Wheeler

Twinkle Wrap tubogas bracelet in 18k gold with enamel, diamonds and morganite.


Robinson Pelham

Strike earrings in 14 karat gold with tsavorites and sapphires.



Dune cuff bracelet in hammered 18-karat gold and diamonds.


Article from Rapaport Magazine – May 2022. To subscribe click here.