Pucci unveils the first creations of Camille Miceli in Capri – WWD

CAPRI, Italy — There was no doubt in Camille Miceli’s mind that her first designs for Pucci were to be unveiled in Capri, the jet-set island where founder Emilio Pucci opened his first boutique in 1951.

Fast forward seven decades later, Capri remains an Italian gem in the Mediterranean, and Miceli, named the brand’s artistic director last September, made sure the two-day experience she planned to showcase her designs reflected the style of Dolce Vita lifestyle associated with both Pucci and the island – and provide countless Instagrammable moments. For example, guests arriving by boat at Bagni Tiberio’s beach and restaurant were greeted by two rows of models in Pucci swimwear, fully accessorized with the brand’s colorful scarves and reclining on Pucci towels in lifts. choreographed and synchronized legs. Three giant Pucci pillows floated in the clear waters under the rocks.

“We thought it was the perfect place to connect with the new Pucci community and everyone is part of the experience and part of the experience,” said Miceli, wearing a lightweight handkerchief top with a print. geometric Emilio Pucci recently revisited on a terry wrap miniskirt. , pointing to several of the guests already wearing her designs, which drop Friday as a see-now-buy-now collection. “It’s important to me that people don’t feel left out of the experience, it should feel more inclusive, for a mix of generations, people and society. For me, that’s something major.

“Joy, fantasy, frivolity, well-being and colors, of course,” are what Pucci stands for, said Miceli, whose energy and passion for the brand is palpable.

Certainly, Sidney Toledano, Chairman and CEO of LVMH Fashion Group and a member of the LVMH Executive Committee, is convinced that Miceli’s “energy, sense of color and print skills” are a perfect fit for the brand. .

“There is a lot to do but this time I am convinced that we are on the right track and when you are there you can decide to go faster,” said the executive, who had worked with Miceli when he was CEO of Dior. . In 2009, the designer left Louis Vuitton for the famous French brand, developing his costume jewelry business and also worked as a creative consultant in leather goods. “She’s a hands-on designer and she has such a passion for the brand,” Toledano said of Miceli.

One of Miceli’s first steps was to return to hand-drawing Pucci designs, just as the founder did. “When I arrived, I saw that the drawings were made by computer but human imperfection is perfection for Pucci”, underlined the designer. “You feel the humanity and sensitivity with Emilio Pucci’s quirky prints. Admittedly, it takes time, but I love this kind of craftsmanship.

She reworked iconic Pucci designs into a mix-and-match patchwork of oversized or miniaturized patterns, citing, for example, the Marmo (marble) pattern and debuting a new logo inspired by an archival “Capri Sport” label from 1953 – a double intertwined fish, in the shape of a P woven, for example, into sandals with wooden soles or a hoodie, or transformed into a single earring.

The first, called “La Grotta Azzurra” and named after the famous Blue Grotto of Capri, includes short or long caftans and kimonos in cotton voile or silk muslin. Armed with its know-how, Miceli expands the brand’s range of accessories and ventures into men’s fashion, offering shirts, fleece sweaters and larger shoes, such as fish-shaped flip-flops with details colored silk on the vamp. Backgammon sets, beach cushions and even playing cards complete the collection.

Asked about her reasons for skipping a show, Miceli said she didn’t find seasonality relevant for Pucci and that presenting Capris would have “much more impact”.

“This experience is absolutely fitting because of the origin of Emilio Pucci’s story, the first boutique, the DNA, the memories playing,” confirmed Toledano, who orchestrated Pucci’s move to a station-focused brand.

“I could see the business doing really well in Palm Beach, Miami, St. Tropez and it was less of an urban story,” Toledano said, citing past iterations of the brand with Christian Lacroix or Peter Dundas. , for example. , and a presence of stores in cities such as London and New York, but deciding not to reinvest in this strategy. He acknowledged that the collaborations with Christelle Kocher, Supreme and Tomo Koizumi had worked well, but that they were “not an overall concept”.

“You have to go in the direction of Emilio Pucci himself, remember where you come from before defining where you want to go, not stick to the past but the roots are important before growing the tree, and more and more people are going to resorts.” After. Many friends decided to move to Miami or Palm Beach from New York during COVID-19,” Toledano continued. “Timing in life is important, it took time to have the opportunity to have Camille, it was good for her, for Pucci and for the group.”

He emphasized “the kind of natural, easy and cool spirit” of the time. “It’s not about taking people to a big boat and telling them look how powerful we are. It’s not that kind of marketing, it’s done in a subtle way, with people sharing things together. Last night at dinner some people danced, some are more shy, but people are there to have fun,” said Toledano, who looked comfortable himself wearing a colorful jacket with azure print and arrived by boat.

Miceli’s first drop was available from Friday exclusively on Mytheresa and the designer aims to jazz up Pucci’s online communication with fresh content and shots, and plans to expand the brand’s online sales.

“I want to push Pucci as an internet brand, and we have to excite, deliver new, and often,” Miceli said. “Honestly if I could I would do weekly drops but I think I would drive them crazy,” she added with a laugh.

Miceli doesn’t necessarily cater to a younger clientele, but casts a wider net with a wider morning-to-night product line and “cheeky” looks, she said. The second fall is scheduled for June 1, but, for the rest of the year, she has already designed ski and winter looks, acknowledging the founder’s skiing skills.

Toledano conceded that a strong online presence is relevant today, but admitted that he was “a store guy” and “the real experience in a store is important”.

There are plans to change the existing store concept, first in Palm Beach, Miami, St. Tropez and Portofino, and add shop-in-shops in major department stores with “very selective distribution”. The Hamptons or perhaps pop-ups at hotels owned by parent company LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, like the Cipriani Hotel in Venice, would also be good choices, he suggested.

Toledano, who took the time to praise Emilio’s daughter, Laudomia Pucci, for protecting the brand and its archives over the years, said Pucci has historically done very well in Japan, where the group plans to strengthen the brand, as well as in America.

Mytheresa CEO Michael Kliger said he saw a “great customer base in the US and the Middle East” for Pucci, “one of the strongest vacation brands” on the luxury site. He touted the new concept of a “fuller, fuller resort.” While kaftans and tunics “have always been a strong part of Pucci, it’s nice to have more of them, but in simple, natural ways, like little baskets, sandals and games.”

He touted Miceli’s “fun, detail-oriented” designs and potential opportunities in menswear.

Together they will work “to create experiences and produce content, used to amplify on the site, and there will be greater push with the content. It is very important for customers to have new ideas and time them on certain occasions and at certain times,” Kliger said. “And social media is very important and we play a role for that message. I think the new strategy fits very well with Pucci, which has always been a light and joyful.